The best rock climbers in the world share their struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Hosted by Ryan Devlin. If you love rock climbing and want to get better at it, chalk up and pull on.
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A podcast about high level climbing. How to go from good to great.
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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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Podcast by Better Climbing Beta
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Beth Rodden: Epic FAs, Death-Defying Escapes, Mental Health, and Becoming a Weekend Warrior
1:25:19
1:25:19
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Elite climber Beth Rodden shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:27:51 Training: 0:31:41 Nutrition: 0:38:43 Tactics: 0:48:44 Mental Game: 0:55:07 Purpose: 1:16:35 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSOR…
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#96 T&J — Battling Mid-Send Doubts, Incredibly Hard Sends, New Shoe Tech, Update Your System By Shutting Up, Don’t Talk Sh!t, and Josh Talk’s Sh!t
1:58:25
1:58:25
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You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings! Tim and Josh tackle the problem of …
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In this Pro Clinic, Nate covers 14 barriers that are holding us back from improving technically, including: Why climbing with straight arms is NOT more efficient When it’s good to make others’ beta your own The most important question to ask yourself when you fall The conflict between strength and skill The three things to focus on to get better RI…
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#95 Palmer Larsen — The Master Coach, Adaptability and Autonomy, Deliberate Practice, Style Then Process, What’s Wrong In Coaching Today, and Olympic 2024 Predictions
2:11:55
2:11:55
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2:11:55
Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28! He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams i…
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Tommy Caldwell: Adventuring with Alex Honnold, Biking to Alaska, Building Endurance, and Environmental Advocacy
1:20:28
1:20:28
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Elite climber Tommy Caldwell is back on the show to talk about his latest epic adventure with Alex Honnold, how he's exploring the limits of human endurance, and the nexus of adventure and environmental advocacy. - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO L…
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#94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough
1:52:11
1:52:11
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1:52:11
What is the best way to approach a climb? It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time. Announcement!! $5 Patron’s now have access t…
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Coach Justen Sjong: Perfection is NOT the Goal, Mental Tactics, Tapping into Breath, and Climbing Performance Hacks
1:13:09
1:13:09
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1:13:09
Climbing Coach Justen Sjong joins to discuss: Two types of climbers (engineer and artist) Tapping into breath as our engine The hidden superpower of being in sync with your belayer Identifying Technical vs Mental strengths / weaknesses Perfection is NOT the goal (but what is?) What our bodies do on the wall when we become scared to try How a rowing…
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#93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only ...
2:08:50
2:08:50
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Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s impor…
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With ice cold beer in hand and waves crashing over the sand... I answer some burning listener questions spanning climbing, training, unicycles, donuts, and Tommy Caldwell. This might be a fun listen or a total waste of your time. Let me know! And I'll be back in the podcast/utility closet next week for a fresh (polished) episode. Cheers!…
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#92 T&J — Climbing At Your Limit, Make It Right USAC, Rants Continue, Gym Field Trips, and The Simplest Effective Training Routine
1:48:03
1:48:03
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1:48:03
Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like. They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant. SHOW NOTES: GoFundme for Adriene Felipe Hoo Beastmaking Book Support the Show. Su…
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Anna Hazelnutt: Training Power, Climbing the Hardest Slabs, Mastering Beta, and Striving to Fail More
1:33:22
1:33:22
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1:33:22
Elite climber Anna Hazelnutt shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:09:39 Training: 0:19:54 Nutrition: 0:37:50 Tactics: 0:46:28 Mental Game: 0:58:06 Purpose: 1:17:50 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPON…
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#91 Jimmy Webb — Adventure and Development, How Climbers Go From Good To Great, Southern Style, World’s Greatest Flasher, The New Generation, and The Hardest Moves In The World
2:23:30
2:23:30
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2:23:30
That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb! Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well. Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb. Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE …
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Nate Drolet: Pro Clinic on Rock Climbing Movement Analysis and Climbing Technique Drills
1:20:31
1:20:31
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1:20:31
This is the first of two Pro Clinics on Movement with Nate Drolet. In this episode Nate covers: New client consultation with Ryan Exploration of Ryan's strengths and weaknesses Analysis of movement and technique Shoe beta Simple drills to improve technique - This full Pro Clinic episode is brought to you at zero cost thanks to Patrons and Subscribe…
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#90 T&J — “Strength Forgets”, The Process SA, Team Trials Trouble, Binding Your Feet, Moonboard Rant, and Get Injured To Get Better Technique?!
1:40:23
1:40:23
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The topics are in the title! A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury. SHOW NOTES: Team Trials Instagram Post by Ryan Paul Robinson on Hueco Rock Rodeo Nathaniel Flashing Scarface Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us o…
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Ben Mayforth: Campusing V12, Grip Strength for Climbing, Pre-Game Rituals, and the Climbing Community
1:08:39
1:08:39
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1:08:39
Elite climber Ben Mayforth shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:06:52 Training: 0:17:51 Nutrition: 0:29:50 Tactics: 0:37:01 Mental Game: 0:47:03 Purpose: 0:56:06 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSO…
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#89 Martin Keller — 8C+ at 45+, How To Gain Limit Strength, How To Project, Naysayers, Avoiding Injury, and The Big Difference Between Indoors and Outdoors
2:30:21
2:30:21
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2:30:21
Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old! Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher. In this episode he shares: How to gain limit strength, rather than just getting tired. The best way to project climbs (he's famous for his decade plus…
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Coach Lauren Abernathy: Climbing Movement Drills, Climbing Efficiency, and Multi-Sport Training
1:07:22
1:07:22
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1:07:22
Coach Lauren Abernathy of Good Spray Climbing joins to discuss: Using momentum to save energy Adding foot moves to make a sequence easier 3-step drill for technique When it’s a good thing to wreck yourself on the route The biggest mistake climbers make when they put a focus on technique How to reach further on the wall The art of letting things sli…
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#88 T&J — Busting Plateau’s, How To Reclaim A Peak, Get Your Own Felipe [Hoo], ROTSW Still V17, and Sending The MoonBoard Proj
1:44:50
1:44:50
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1:44:50
Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. Big shout outs to the crews that make life special for Tim and Josh and what they did to help them be their best. Bosi repeats ROTSW, and just about every other hard thing in the world.…
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Stefano Ghisolfi: Taking On the Hardest Climbs in the World, Olympic Training, the Grade Debate, and the Power of Fun
1:18:02
1:18:02
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1:18:02
Elite climber Stefano Ghisolfi shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:07:18 Training: 0:11:36 Nutrition: 0:31:25 Tactics: 0:37:34 Mental Game: 0:51:57 Olympics: 0:58:57 Purpose: 1:05:54 - BIG THANKS…
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#87 Matty Hong — Big Falls & Big Fish [9a 50m DWS], Photography 101, What Makes Sharma Special and Lessons From Biographie [World’s First 9a+]
1:52:31
1:52:31
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1:52:31
Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft! Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers a…
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In this Pro Clinic, Emily explores: Parenthood as one big expedition Struggling with fear and risk as she got back on the big walls Managing sleep deprivation like when she was on Mt Everest Parenting hacks for climbing with a kiddo in tow Sending 14a / 8b+ post-pregnancy Training strength AND endurance on a hang board in around 20 mins a day Balan…
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#86 T&J — PED’s, Breaking Down A Crux, Climbing Like A 6 Year-Old Girl, Injury Prevention, and BTS On A Moonboard Session
1:46:25
1:46:25
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1:46:25
Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striving for. SHOW NOTES: 2017 V8 / 7B+ on Moonboard 2016 Set Podcast #33 with Andy Tollefson Support the Show. Support us on Patr…
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Natalia Grossman: Olympic Training, Climbing World Cup Ups and Downs, and Using Joy as a Performance Hack
1:07:02
1:07:02
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1:07:02
Elite climber Natalia Grossman shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!): patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:06:37 Training: 0:08:34 Nutrition: 0:17:21 Tactics: 0:31:08 Mental Game: 0:40:48 Olympics: 0:51:12 Purpose: 0:56:22 - BIG THANKS…
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#85 Keenan Takahashi — Higher Harder Better, ANTIGRAV, The Best Lines In The World, Mentorship, Manifesting More, and The Mustache Turns 10
2:13:57
2:13:57
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2:13:57
The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi! Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to climb them. Keenan also has created one of the coolest new brands in climbing, ANTIGRAV, that embodies his psyche and ethos for cl…
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Coach Ollie Torr: Training like Alex Honnold, Climbing Endurance Hacks, Beginner Plateaus, and Listener Questions
1:08:12
1:08:12
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1:08:12
Coach Ollie Torr of Lattice Training joins to discuss: How to adjust training when fighting a cold How much time off we can take before losing gains What energy system to top up right before taking a vacation Building power like Alex Honnold How to break through a beginner plateau The thing that might be more important than finger strength An easy …
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#84 T&J — Hard Hard, New New, Sessioning With The BEST, USAC Controversy, and Switching To Moonboard 2024
2:02:44
2:02:44
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2:02:44
2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? Hear more from Tim about what a session is like when multiple V16 climbers get together to try the hardest boulders in the world. Support…
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Adam Ondra: Finger Training, Climbing Fast, Projecting Tips, Free Soloing, and Historical Downgrades
1:26:59
1:26:59
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1:26:59
Elite climber Adam Ondra shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Adam has 18 World Cup Gold medals,, is one of the best boulderers in the world with four V16 or 8C+ and 17 8C or V15 to his name. On sport, Adam has flashed up to 9a+ or 5.15a with Super Crackinette, he was the first to redpoint 5.15c …
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#83 Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [~V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro
1:51:12
1:51:12
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1:51:12
Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the har…
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This conversation has the power to not only change your climbing, but to change your life. In this Pro Clinic, Hazel explores: Fear of falling Expectations Social comparison / competition Fear of failure Performance Hacks that we can try TODAY to help reduce anxiety, access flow, perform better, and have a more joyful experience when we pull off th…
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#82 T&J — Negative Thoughts -> Words -> Actions, Type 2 Fun, Achieving Your Potential, Grades vs Belts, and ‘Make Climbing Dangerous Again’
1:55:58
1:55:58
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1:55:58
Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth". Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions. SHOW NOTES: Noah Wheeler on Sleepwalker Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up …
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Amity Warme on Cobra Crack: Lessons from Not-Sending, Route-Specific Training, Micro-Underfueling, and Doing Her Hardest Routes with a Ruptured Pulley
1:01:24
1:01:24
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1:01:24
Elite climber Amity Warme shares her process, struggles, and learnings as she projected (but hasn't yet sent) one of the hardest trad routes in the world, Cobra Crack. - Amity is a trad and big wall crusher, boasting ground-up ascents of El Nino, El Corazon, Golden Gate, and the Freerider routes of El Cap, plus other hard trad lines such as Book of…
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#81 Carlo Traversi — The Dark Side V16 FA, Using Wet Chalk, Pushing Not Pulling, The Grade Debate, and What He Learned From Yosemite Testpiece’s
2:15:44
2:15:44
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Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite. Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our generation in Yosemite bouldering. Tune in and see what you think. Carlo explains the incredible tactics he had to employ to get this FA done. It was absolutely mindb…
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Coach Tom Randall of Lattice Training joins to discuss: What to do if the project didn't go down Winter training Testing Planning training around spring goals What every climber should focus more in on their training How to optimize a 2-hour gym session - This episode is coming to you at zero cost thanks to: Rungne: Try Magdust, performance chalk a…
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#80: T&J — Always Be Hungry, Good Sessions Only, Stop Lying, You Suck, Fueled by Failure, and Tim Joins A Normie Gym
1:39:48
1:39:48
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Happy New Year, my dude. Tim and Josh get meta about how to have the best 2024 possible by asking the question — why can’t all sessions be good ones? SHOW NOTES: Mastery by Robert Greene Atomic Habits by James Clear Support the Show. Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagra…
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Drew Ruana: Climbing Hard Everyday, Never Hang Boarding, Progression, and When to Walk Away
1:25:10
1:25:10
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1:25:10
Elite climber Drew Ruana shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Drew started climbing at Smith Rock at the age of 3, and it didn’t take long for him to climb the place out. His focus in those earlier years was on sport climbing, and the kid was a crusher, sending Just Do It, the first 5.14C / 8C+ i…
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#79: West Coast Pimps — Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher, Sharma’s Mentor, The Origin’s of Try Hard, Early Days in Hueco and Bishop, and Lessons From Decades of High Level Bouldering
2:08:28
2:08:28
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Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher are West Coast bouldering OG’s. They started climbing 3 decades ago and were part of the birth of modern HARD bouldering. Tune in to hear about the early days of bouldering and how it set the tone for what’s going on today. There’s tons of can’t miss stories about young Chris Sharma and what Hueco, Bishop, and Font wer…
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#78: T&J — Baby Rattlesnakes, F*CK! Tim Got Injured, The Demonstration of Strength, Kids Vs Adults, and Boarding As A Minor
2:03:27
2:03:27
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F*CK! Tim busted his knee. Not the best way to spend the holidays... The main topic for this episode is what Kids do better than Adults, and what Adults do better than Kids. Tim and Josh also talk about the latest ascents of two previous Testpiece Guests -- Defying Gravity by Nathaniel Coleman, and Sleepwalker by Zach Galla. This leads into a discu…
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Coach Jesse Firestone shares 10 pro tips on how to start 2024 off right, so that we can take our training, performance, and enjoyment to new heights. - This episode is sponsored by Patrons and Subscribers of The Struggle. Score immediate access to this full Pro Clinic plus 30 hours of bonus content and other perks by supporting the show as a Patron…
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#77: Zach Galla — Raw Power, The Truth Behind WC Comps, The Olympic Grind, Leaving a Legacy, and The Role of Boards
1:52:18
1:52:18
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1:52:18
Zach Galla has been ticking off some of the hardest boulders in America while simultaneously competing at the highest level. He’s always vying for the podium in any US competition and has spent time on the World Cup circuit as well. Zach goes deep on this podcast about what it’s really like to compete at these high level comps. What the setting is …
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Magnus Midtbø & Till Gross: Learning from the Best Climbers
1:03:51
1:03:51
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1:03:51
Elite climber Magnus Midtbø returns to The Struggle with his business partner, Till Gross, to share their perspective on how climbers can improve at the sport by accessing A-list coaches and other climbing resources online. - Magnus and Till are developing a pretty ambitious and impressive online coaching platform that includes some of the biggest …
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#76: T&J — How Technical is Board Climbing? Committing vs Learning, Being the Conductor, Lead Domino, and One Arm Pull-Ups
2:13:11
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Why do we call board climbing “not technical”? What does this really mean? Board climbing wasn’t the planned topic of the day, but once Tim and Josh get talking about boards they have a hard time stopping! Then Tim and Josh talk about being the Conductor of your climbing, and how/when to employ two major mindsets during your sessions. SHOW NOTES: S…
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Elite climber Magnus Midtbø shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Magnus is a wildly successful YouTuber, with more than two million subs at the time of this recording, and his videos – a mix of climbing content and general feats of strength and resilience – have amassed hundreds of millions of vi…
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#75: Jesse Grupper — Neck Tats, Paris 2024, Big Goals Little Steps, Mega-Volume, Sport Climbing Tips, Cyborgs and Optimism as a Tool
1:50:27
1:50:27
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1:50:27
Jesse Grupper recently punched his ticket to Paris 2024 as part of the men’s USA Olympic team! This is on top of his already incredible last few years with multiple gold medal wins at the WC, an incredible flash of Livin’ Astro (14c), AND his flash of Pure Imagination (14c) just the day before recording! Jesse is on a tear at comps, outdoors, on le…
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Coach Eric Hörst continues the Road to 13a series, as we explore my training, tactics, and performance on the hardest project I've ever taken on... and what we ALL can do to make the most of our limit projecting experience. - Eric is the host of the Training4Climbing podcast, author of numerous climbing bibles, pro coach for decades, founder of Phy…
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#74: T&J — Board Wars, Board Lords, Boards Adored, Spray vs Standardized, Wood vs Plastic, Bad Apps, Flo Flows Floatin, and If There Could Only Be ONE
2:23:43
2:23:43
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2:23:43
Which board is best?! Tim and Josh disagree... but not for the reason you might expect. Spray Wall or Standardized Wall? Wood holds or plastic? What angle? Tim and Josh love board climbing and we know you do too. They dive into the nuances of what makes a board great, and maybe more importantly, who that board is great for. SHOW NOTES: Spraywall vs…
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Dave MacLeod: Part II
1:05:22
1:05:22
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1:05:22
Elite climber Dave MacLeod shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game (Part II) - In Part II with Dave MacLeod, one of the world's finest and educated climbers, we explore Tactics, Mental Game, and what Dave’s working on outside of his own climbing. And get ready for your palms to sweat a bit as we explo…
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#73: Ethan Salvo — Don’t Try Hard, What Makes Squamish Special, V15 in Squamish vs CO, What’s Next In Squamish Bouldering, and Being On Team ANTIGRAV
2:07:58
2:07:58
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2:07:58
“Motherf*cking Squamish beta, don’t try hard!” — Nalle Hukkataival Squamish is having a renaissance and Ethan Salvo is part of the team of young guns making it happen. Him and his crew are repeating the hardest boulders Squamish has, and adding their new ones to the list. And that’s special, because these boulders just don’t get done very often. No…
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Dave MacLeod: Part I
1:19:54
1:19:54
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1:19:54
Elite climber Dave MacLeod shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Hailing from the highlands of Scotland, Dave has methodically worked his way up to the highest levels of the sport, and sits at the very top when it comes to heady trad ascents on the notoriously poorly protected gritstone in his bac…
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#72: T&J — Smoking Sharma's Joint, Outdoor Season Prep, Pro Problems, Small Holds Small Feet, Skin Smarts, Rituals and Music To Get You Psyched
2:05:11
2:05:11
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How much would you pay to smoke a joint with Chris Sharma? What about have Daniel Woods be your sommelier for the night? Tim and Josh start off by talking about Sean Bailey’s viral post about his struggles making it as a Pro Climber. For the ‘Topic of the Day’, Tim and Josh share tips and tricks on how to shift into Outdoor climbing mode after a lo…
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Kris Hampton takes us to rock school with this Pro Clinic focusing on flash/onsight tactics, and offers up clear and simple guidance for climbers of all levels to take our flash grade (as well as our redpoints) to new heights. - This episode is sponsored by Patrons and Subscribers of The Struggle. Enjoy the full Pro Clinic, extended and ad-free epi…
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