EP 207: Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) — How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Το περιεχόμενο παρέχεται από το Steven Dimmitt. Όλο το περιεχόμενο podcast, συμπεριλαμβανομένων των επεισοδίων, των γραφικών και των περιγραφών podcast, μεταφορτώνεται και παρέχεται απευθείας από τον Steven Dimmitt ή τον συνεργάτη της πλατφόρμας podcast. Εάν πιστεύετε ότι κάποιος χρησιμοποιεί το έργο σας που προστατεύεται από πνευματικά δικαιώματα χωρίς την άδειά σας, μπορείτε να ακολουθήσετε τη διαδικασία που περιγράφεται εδώ https://el.player.fm/legal.

7M ago 1:45:11

MP3•Αρχική οθόνη επεισοδίου

Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!

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Watch the Video Interview:

EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:28) – Topics covered

(00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio

(00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics

(00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries

(00:16:21) – Stress shielding

(00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries

(00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries

(00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos

(00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position

(00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers

(00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception

(00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises

(00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis

(00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis

(00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age

(01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important

(01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints

(01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?

(01:09:18) – Playing the long game

(01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli

(01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises

(01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow

(01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow

(01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions

(01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries

(01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)

(01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues

(01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis

(01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured

(01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

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