Episode 163: Gender, Sizing, & The Fashion Industry, with Ruby & Maggie

Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty

Why does "unisex" clothing always have a menswear aesthetic? How is clothing marketed differently toward men and women? And why is sizing so weird? In these week's episode, we'll be talking all about gender and the history of sizing in the fashion industry. Amanda is joined by Ruby Gertz and Clotheshorse all-star Maggie Greene to break down these important questions.

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Use the GEM app to find vintage and secondhand clothing from big platforms like Etsy, eBay, Poshmark and from hundreds of independent online stores as well.

Additional reading and resources from Ruby & Maggie:

Maggie recommends checking out "Next in Fashion" on Netflix

People who Maggie looks to for inspiration and learning - on LinkedIn specifically (which is a great space to learn and grow personally and professionally, it's not just for job-hunting anymore):

• Dr. Elisa Glick (she, her), a Jewish trans woman and leader in Diversity, Equity, Inclusion, and Belonging: https://www.linkedin.com/in/elisa-glick433/
• Taryn Talley (she, her), an Indigenous trans woman and marketing leader: https://www.linkedin.com/in/taryn-talley1/
• Lilly Contino (she, her): a trans woman and educator on trans issues, gender, and sexuality: https://www.linkedin.com/in/lillycontino
• Anne Bono (they, she): a nonbinary marketing leader who speaks openly about intersectionality and how to do marketing differently: https://www.linkedin.com/in/annebono
• Jack Turnwald (they, them): nonbinary DEI consultant and professional speaker: https://www.linkedin.com/in/jackieturnwald
• Mark Bieraugel (they, them): nonbinary infotech leader who embodies their personal style without adhering to strictly masculine or feminine "rules": https://www.linkedin.com/in/mark-bieraugel-6118021
• K Strohl (they, them): nonbinary psychological safety and boundaries strategist who is unapologetic in their approach to gender issues in the workplace and education: https://www.linkedin.com/in/k-strohl

From Ruby:

• Alok Vaid-Menon: @alokvmenon on Instagram (their book report posts are especially great, and they've written several books of their own)Spaces between Us by Scott Lauria Morgenson (talks about the colonial erasure of indigenous gender concepts)
• Fearing the Black Body: The Racial Origins of Fat Phobia by Sabrina Strings
• Aubrey Gordon, https://www.yourfatfriend.com/ (also cohost of Maintenance Phase podcast, which is great)
• 99% Invisible podcast episode about Adolphe Quetelet, "On Average": https://99percentinvisible.org/episode/on-average/
• Helen's Closet sewing pattern company measurement data survey results: https://helensclosetpatterns.com/2019/01/25/curvy-sewing-survey-results/

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording: [e-mail]

Check out Amanda's other podcast, The Department.

Find the transcript at clotheshorsepodcast.com

Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Picnicwear: a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials - most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry's shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage.

Shift Clothing, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first. Discover more at shiftwheeler.com

​High Energy Vintage is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley & Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram @ highenergyvintage, online at highenergyvintage.com, and at markets in and around Boston.

St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month. New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens.

The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, ...