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Black Fashion History

Taniqua Martin

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A fashion history podcast celebrating the past and present contributions of black people around the world to the fashion industry. It's black history, but make it fashion! Hosted by Taniqua Martin.
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Dressed: The History of Fashion

Dressed Media

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With over 8 billion people in the world, we all have one thing in common: everyday, we all get dressed. Join fashion historians April Calahan and Cassidy Zachary in celebrating the who, what, when of why we wear throughout history and around the world.
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Books are some of the first ways that children are introduced to the fantastical, wonderful, and historical world of fashion. On today's episode, we share some children's books that sparked our own love for fashion history, as well as some more recent publications. Books discussed in today's episode (some with links to purchase): A Treasury of the …
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It's time to add Santa Fe to the list of world fashion centers! May marks the debut of SWAIA Native Fashion Week, the very first Indigenous “fashion week” in the US dedicated to showcasing the exciting and dynamic creations of Native American and Indigenous Canadian designers. Amber Dawn Bear Robe, the show's visionary director and producer, joins …
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We continue our exploration into the fashion history of the Gucci family, in part two of a two part past episode from the Dressed archive. Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website and classes Our Instagram Our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles Our Sponsors: * Check out My Life in a Book and use my code DRE…
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Today, the name Gucci, with its iconic double "G" logo, is an internationally renowned luxury fashion label. But what of the Gucci family responsible for its creation? In this week's two-part episode from the Dressed archives, we delve into the fashion history of one of the world's most instantly recognizable brands by centering the family responsi…
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Waleria Dorgova joins us for for the second part of our episode this week on the artist, interior, fashion and textile designer Sonia Delaunay. Dr. Dorogova co-curated the ground-breaking exhibition with Dr. Laura Microulis, research curator of the Bard Graduate Center, where the exhibition Sonia Delaunay: Living Art is on view through July 7, 2024…
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Now mostly remembered as a painter, this week we look at the broad spectrum of the work of Sonia Delaunay with a special emphasis on her fashion and textile designs. Waleria Dorogova, co-curator of the exhibition Sonia Delaunay: Living Art which is now on view at the Bard Graduate Center in New York City joins us to speak about the years of researc…
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This week, we are joined by Rebecca Seaver, the Director of Museum & Archive Services for Dolly Parton, and the person responsible for the curated selection of special pieces on view in Dolly's recently published memoir Behind the Seams: My Life in Rhinestones. And thanks to the book's audio companion, we even hear from Dolly herself! A special tha…
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This week, we are joined by Rebecca Seaver, the Director of Museum & Archive Services for Dolly Parton, and the person responsible for the curated selection of special pieces on view in Dolly's recently published memoir Behind the Seams: My Life in Rhinestones. And thanks to the book's audio companion, we even hear from Dolly herself! A special tha…
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When fashion designer Salvacion Lim "Slim" Higgins opened her first atelier in Manila in 1947, she ushered in both the golden age of Filipino couture and her own forty-plus year career. Her son Mark Lewis Higgins joins us to discuss her incredible life and legacy. Recommended additional resources: SLIM's Fashion School here and here SLIM's Fashion …
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We revisit a 2021 episode with guest Ayaka Sano who joined us to discuss the early years of the career of Japanese designer Hanae Mori, the first Asian designer admitted to the ranks of French haute couture. Mori's career spanned five decades and the globe, enjoying international success thanks to her seamless and signature blending of euro-America…
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In part II of this week's episode in commemorating the 113th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire which occurred in Lower Manhattan on March 25, 1911, we examine how the fire started, hear from some of the survivors and learn about the sweeping labor reforms and worker protections which followed in its wake. Recommended resources: Co…
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As the 113th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory approaches in a few short days, this week we bring you a two-part episode on the nature of the New York City garment trade at the turn of the 20th century, and how a horrific workplace accident on March 25, 1911 reshaped the landscape of workers rights and protections. Recommended resource…
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This week we chat about the latest in fashion history news including Norma Kamali training an AI to design her legacy, the Oscar nominees for Best Costume Design, a new YSL bookshop in Paris and some of the spectacular pieces up for sale at recent fashion auctions. Recommended Resources: Vogue Archive Killers of the Flower Moon article by Christian…
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In the spirit of prom season being just around the corner, this week we return to a 2020 episode to learn to origins of one of quintessential rites of passage for American teenagers: attending prom. From its roots in debutante culture to its 1850s inception at Ivy League colleges that lead to prom becoming a high school phenomenon, the history of p…
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We continue our conversation with Isabel Attyah Flower and Marcel Rosa-Salas about nameplate jewelry, addressing its central and even controversial role in both sub and mainstream cultural expressions, including hip hop. Recommended resources: The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and Identity Documenting the Nameplate Instagram Want more Dressed: The Hi…
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Isabel Attyah Flower and Marcel Rosa-Salas join us to discuss their book The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and Identity, which celebrates the myriad of meanings embedded in the multi-cultural and cross-generational phenomenon of nameplate jewelry. Recommended resources: The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and Identity Documenting the Nameplate Instagram …
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In the wonderful and often bizarre world of fashion fads from history, we ask the question: which should live on to wear another day and which should be left to history? Recommended resources: Bedazzled Beetles Hobble Skirt Painted knees Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website and classes Our Instagram Our bookshelf with over 100 of …
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Maison Margiela's Spring/Summer Paris 2024 Haute Couture collection show delivered a haunting jolt that is hard to forget. Whether you loved the show or hated it, it was a moment. And that moment–which will undoubtedly go down in fashion history–was also packed with references to the history of fashion itself. Alexandre Samson, Curator of Haute Cou…
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An exceptionally famous milliner in her day, the life and career of Mildred Blount has been somewhat lost to history. Curator Taylor Bythewood-Porter joins us to shine a light on the first African-American to be admitted to the Motion Pictures Costumers Union and her glorious on-screen creations for films including Gone With the Wind and Gigi as we…
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In the early years of the twentieth century, Madam C.J. Walker built an international, Black hair care empire from the ground floor up, transforming herself from a laundry work making $1.50 a day to the woman Guinness World Records identifies as the “first self-made millionairess.” This week, we learn all about her extraordinary life in an intervie…
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In part II of our episode on The Costume Institute's exhibition Women Dressing Women, co-curator Mellissa Huber takes us behind the scenes and shines a light on some of the invisible labor which does into mounting a major fashion in a museum. Can't make the show? Grab a copy of the amazing exhibition catalog here! Want more Dressed: The History of …
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This week we are joined by Mellissa Huber and Karen Van Godtsenhoven, curators of The Costume Institute's exhibition Women Dressing Women, which is on view at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City through March 10, 2024. The exhibition explores more than 100 years of fashion history via the work of women designers and centers their contri…
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Fourth generation flower maker Adam Brand takes us behind the scenes of his family's business M&S Schmalberg. Founded by his family in 1916, the company is the last of its kind in America. M&S Schmalberg's website and Instagram Etsy store with a 20% discount just for Dressed listeners! Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website and clas…
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Fifth generation master pleater George Kalajian’s family has been perfecting the art of the pleat since the 19th century. He joins us to discuss the past, present, and future of his family’s renowned pleating enterprise Tom’s Sons International Pleating, a staple of New York City’s Garment District since the 1970s. Tom's Sons International Pleating…
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Our favorite vedette, Dita Von Teese, joins us this for part 2 of our conversation this week to chat about being the first-ever guest star at Paris' legendary cabaret, the Crazy House and her current residency in Las Vegas. Her show Dita Las Vegas: A Jubilant Revue is onstage now at the Jubilee Theater, formerly home to iconic acts including Frank …
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We are kicking off our seventh season of Dressed in spectacular style as we are joined all this week by the one and only Dita Von Teese! A longtime vintage collector and star of the neo-burlesque scene, Dita's impact on contemporary visual culture cannot be underestimated. In part one of this two-part episode, we chat about her relationship with vi…
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This week's mini-sode from the Dressed archive explores the story of Juli Lynne Charlot who created an instantly recognizable 1950s classic: the poodle skirt. Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website and classes Our Instagram Our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles Our Sponsors: * Check out My Life in a Book…
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What do millionaires, harlequins and cigarettes have to do with the iconic cat-eye frame? Tune into this fascinating episode from the Dressed archive to find out. Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website and classes Our Instagram Our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles Our Sponsors: * Check out My Life in a …
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This week we revisit our 2020 episode dedicated to the work of costume designer, fashion historian and expert on the history of paper patterns, Joy Spanabel Emery, who for many years also served as the Curator of the Commercial Pattern Archive at the University of Rhode Island. Her book A History of the Pattern Pattern: The Home Dressmaking Fashion…
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This week we revisit our episode with fashion historian, couture collector, museum curator, author and Vogue Global Editor-at-Large, Hamish Bowles. He joined us in 2020 to share the childhood origins of his passion for fashion history and the building blocks of his extraordinary life and career. Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our websit…
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This week we explore the symbiotic relationships between modern women, fashion, and cars at the dawn of the twentieth century. Recommended reading: Dorothy Levitt's 1909 guidebook FIDM's "Traveling Duster" blog A'Lelia Bundles's On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C.J. Walker Georgine Clarsen's Eat My Dust: Early Women Moderists Emily Re…
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How did a practical device for catching fish become a coveted and controversial fashion staple? This week, we explore the fascinating thousand-year plus history behind fishnets. Recommended reading: History of Hand-Knitting Fab Fishnet Images from the 1950s/60s Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website and classes Our Instagram Our boo…
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Today we revisit our 2020 episode with Kate Sekules who joined us to chat about her book Mend!: A Refashioning Manual and Manifesto which details the history of mending, contemporary visible mending practices and offers tips and techniques to get readers started on their own mending adventures. You can find more on Kate's work at visiblemending.com…
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On the heels of New Year's Day, we revisit the 2019 episode on the history of not only men's suits and formalwear, but specifically the tuxedo. Congrats to our friend Chloe Chapin, who since this episode first aired, is now officially Dr. Chapin! Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website Our Instagram Our bookshelf with over 100 of our…
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We revisit our interview with artist Kirstie Macleod who joined us in 2021 to share the stories behind The Red Dress Project, her then eleven year collaboration empowering women artisans from around the world to share their stories through embroidery. Fast forward to today and the now 14 year old project includes millions of stitches from the work …
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We revisit our episode with filmmaker Adele Pham, who joined us in 2021 to discuss her documentary film Nailed It, which explores the history and influence of Vietnamese American nail salons. Recommended link More information on Nailed It can be found here Watch Nailed It Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website and classes Our Instag…
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This week we revisit our two-part episode with one of fashion's living legends, Norma Kamali, whose work has defined the American fashion scene for five decades. In this second part, Norma speaks about rebuilding her business after divorce and creative spaces in fashion in the wake of the pandemic. Recommended Reading: Kamali, Norma and Susan Brown…
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This week we revisit our two-part episode with one of fashion's living legends, Norma Kamali, whose work has defined the American fashion scene for five decades. From her education as a fashion illustrator to building her brand from the ground up--not once--but twice, Kamali shares her thoughts on life, love and style. Recommended Reading: Kamali, …
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This week we revisit our interview with Academy Award-winning costume designer John Bright to discuss his prolific film and television career spanning five decades. A collector of historic fashion, John is also the founder and owner of the world's leading costume house Cosprop. Further learning: Explore The John Bright Collection here John Bright C…
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This week, we revisit the 100th episode of the show which we celebrated with Mary Wilson, founding member of The Supremes and author of the book Supreme Glamour. Ms. Mary joined us to discuss the evolution of the group's now iconic wardrobe and the integral role that fashion--and supreme glamour--played in the success of one of the greatest singing…
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This week we revisit a conversation with one of our favorite contemporary artists, Fabiola Jean-Louis, who rewrites history by photographing women of color in the historic silhouettes she painstakingly recreates from paper. Jean-Louis' work is currently on view at both The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the Isabella Stewart Gardner…
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This week we revisit our most popular Dressed episode ever! A symbol of glitz, glamour and celebration, we bring you a special holiday edition on the history of glitter. Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website Our Instagram Our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles! Our Sponsors: * Check out My Life in a Book…
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Join us for our now annual holiday party where we 'exchange' some of their favorite gifts from fashion's past and present. Gifts you can gift! Our very first online course What Women Wore to the Revolution Books for our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles 18th Century Beauty Box 18th Century Beauty Spots Pressed flower dy…
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This week marks the 50th anniversary of one of American fashion's greatest moments: the Battle of Versailles. "Halstonette" Chris Royer joins us to discuss her first hand account of modeling in the now legendary fashion face-off between French haute couture and American design. Want more Battle of Versailles? The King of Sexy Cling: An Interview wi…
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It's official!!! In today's episode we announce the launch of Dressed: The School of Fashion, chat about Prada's upcoming trip to the moon and recommend some fashion history newsletters to follow. Recommendations: Sign up for our first class: What Women Wore to the Revolution, Part I IKEA's Designer Towel Skirt Fashion Newsletters: Laura Beltran Ru…
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Have you ever pondered, 'but, what would Jane Austen wear?' We have all the answers for you in this episode, as Dr. Hilary Davidson joins us to talk about her two books: Dress in the Age of Jane Austen and Jane Austen's Wardrobe. Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our website Our Instagram Our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion…
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In today's episode, we answer some listener mail about what is and what isn't fast fashion, discuss the documentary Unboxing Shein and chat about the latest news from The Met's Costume Institute. Recommended: Fashion Revolution Transparency Index Good On You The True Cost documentary Unboxing Shein Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our web…
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Custom couturier to brides, debutantes and American socialites, including Jacqueline Bouvier and Marjorie Merriweather Post, The Saturday Evening Post once called Ann Lowe "society's best kept secret." Today, we explore the true breadth of Lowe's career with fashion curator Elizabeth Way who joins us to speak about her exhibition Ann Lowe: American…
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Just as fashion is more than pretty clothes, basketball is more than just a game. Pulitzer Prize winning author Mitchell S. Jackson joins us to discuss why the relationship between fashion and basketball matters historically and today. Purchase Fly: The Big Book of Basketball Fashion Mitchell's website Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? Our…
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